You will need: tablecloth, paper, pencil, fabric paint in two tones of green, saucer, small stamp roller, leaf design stamp, spare fabric if requirred.
Time needed: 30 minutes
If the tablecloth is new, wash, dry and iron it first. Lay it out on a flat, firm surface, mright side up. Sketch out your design on a piece of paper, then lightly mark out on the tablecloth where you stamped designs will go. Pour a little of each shade of fabric paint into a saucer so that they mix slightly. Apply some paint to the roller, then roll the paint on to the stamp. (If you have not used stamps on the fabric before, practise on a spare piece of fabric first.) Press the stamp on to the tablecloth, then reapply paint before stamping again. Repeat to cover the tablecloth with the design. Fix according to the manufacturers instructions.
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Friday 23 September 2011
Handy workstation
Turn two coffee tables into an indispensable kitchen trolley that provides extra workspace and storage, too.
You will need: two identical low tables, paintbrush, eggshell paint, pencil, 8 right-angled brackets with screws, drill, screwdriver, chrome rail 5cm shorter than table width, 4 castors.
Time needed: 2 hours plus drying time
Step1: Paint both tables with two coats of eggshell paint and leave to dry.
Step2: Stand one table on top on the other and draw round the legs. Position right0angle brackets on the table top (one on the inside corners of each leg, i.e. two brackets per leg) and mark where screw holes will go on the top of the lower table and on the legs of the upper table. Drill holes in the table top and in the legs of the upper table.
Step3:Screw brackets to the legs, then pklace the upper table on the lower table, lining up with the pencil marks, and screw the brackets to the table top.
Step4: Screw the rail to the top edge of the table and screw a castor to the bottom of each leg.
You will need: two identical low tables, paintbrush, eggshell paint, pencil, 8 right-angled brackets with screws, drill, screwdriver, chrome rail 5cm shorter than table width, 4 castors.
Time needed: 2 hours plus drying time
Step1: Paint both tables with two coats of eggshell paint and leave to dry.
Step2: Stand one table on top on the other and draw round the legs. Position right0angle brackets on the table top (one on the inside corners of each leg, i.e. two brackets per leg) and mark where screw holes will go on the top of the lower table and on the legs of the upper table. Drill holes in the table top and in the legs of the upper table.
Step3:Screw brackets to the legs, then pklace the upper table on the lower table, lining up with the pencil marks, and screw the brackets to the table top.
Step4: Screw the rail to the top edge of the table and screw a castor to the bottom of each leg.
Colourful tiled splashback
It's easy to tile your own splashback to protect the areas behind the sink and cooker and bring new colour to your kitchen.
You will need: tiles, felt pen, timber battens (50x25mm), spirit level, a few masonry nails, hammer, tape measure, tile adhesive & spreader, tile spacers, sponge, tile cutter, waterproof grout & applicator, cloth, all-allpurpose sealant.
You will need: tiles, felt pen, timber battens (50x25mm), spirit level, a few masonry nails, hammer, tape measure, tile adhesive & spreader, tile spacers, sponge, tile cutter, waterproof grout & applicator, cloth, all-allpurpose sealant.
Time needed: Half a day
Step1: Position one tile centally under the window, flush with the ledge. Mark where the bottom of the tile falls.
Step2: Nail a battern to the wall, its top edge along the marked line, checking with the spirit level that it is horizontal. Measure two tile widths out from the edge of the window, allowing a narrow gap for grout, and nail a second batten upright along this line, checking with the spirit level that it is vertical.
Step3: Spread adhesive over about a four-tile area in the battened-off area. Use the notched side of the spreader to form ridges of adhesive.
Step4: Press tiles gently on to the wall until the adhesive squeezes out around the sides. Check the tiles are flat against the wall. Press spacers into each corner.
Step5: Lay tiles along the windowsill so that they cover the top edges of the wall tiles. Wipe off excess adhesive.
Step6: Lay all the whole tiles and leave to dry before removing battens. Cut tiles to fit into any gaps and fix in place.
Step7: Grout the tiled area. Remove the excess with a sponge, then leave to dry.
Step8: Seal the gap between worktop and tiles with sealant.
Step2: Nail a battern to the wall, its top edge along the marked line, checking with the spirit level that it is horizontal. Measure two tile widths out from the edge of the window, allowing a narrow gap for grout, and nail a second batten upright along this line, checking with the spirit level that it is vertical.
Step3: Spread adhesive over about a four-tile area in the battened-off area. Use the notched side of the spreader to form ridges of adhesive.
Step4: Press tiles gently on to the wall until the adhesive squeezes out around the sides. Check the tiles are flat against the wall. Press spacers into each corner.
Step5: Lay tiles along the windowsill so that they cover the top edges of the wall tiles. Wipe off excess adhesive.
Step6: Lay all the whole tiles and leave to dry before removing battens. Cut tiles to fit into any gaps and fix in place.
Step7: Grout the tiled area. Remove the excess with a sponge, then leave to dry.
Step8: Seal the gap between worktop and tiles with sealant.
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